Wednesday, August 10, 2005

Cycling by the traffic-rules -- August 7

I bought a bike! Yeah I know, for a few weeks it doesn't sound it's worth the deal, but it makes getting around here much easier. I payed 850 pesos for it, which is a good price judging from everybody's reaction. First I was going to rent one, but that would have cost almost as much, for the reminder of my time here. Plus, if that one had gotten stolen, I would have had to buy it. This way, I can sell it before I leave and get... like 50% of the money back. (I just might be that lucky...)

The bike itself is of course chopped down to the bare minimum. (So I guess I could call it a Chopper and feel cool about it.) All in all, it is the WORST bike I have ever owned. And if anyone is fortunate enough to know my beautiful rust-covered oldie I used to ride around on in Tucson, they'll know this is no exaggeration. The thing is called a "mountain-bike" here, which makes out 90% of bicycles in Playa. That is completely ridiculous, as the biggest hills in the area are the extreme sized speed bumps on bigger streets. But as big as the tires are, there is altogether ONE gear, no need to change. Also, it's missing other major ingredients, such as lights or a bell. Fortunately it has brakes, which don't stop you right away, but slow you down gradually before bringing the bike to a standstill. It gets you into the habit of calculating the stopping distance. However, the worst feature in my opinion are the bright blue and red colors, with shinny silver lettering, that scream: "I'M NEW!!! Please take me! The lock should not be a problem if you're a pro...," or something along those lines.

Talking about pros, they don't even need any tools any more to take your bike. A badge is more than sufficient. And those come in shapes of huge stars, which any Texas sheriff would envy. You see them driving around in a police pick-up truck with a few bicycles already loaded. If they like your bike, they stop you and explain that they've just witnessed you committing some sort of traffic violation, for which they have to seize your primitive vehicle immediately. If you want it back, you have to prove that you are worthy to partake in the sharing of the road, like all the other responsible travelers. In order to do so, you are asked to come in for a lecture that evening (costing the appropriate fee), and pass a written examination, which is more a test in official bureaucrat Spanish than in the rules of the road. With a bit of luck you can even regain your bicycle. Although if that is too much stress for you, and if you feel like supporting the diligent effort of the protectors of traffic safety with a generous donation, they might let you keep your bike. What should I say... this is Mexico.

Fortunately I didn't have to experience this on my own. It was told to me by one of the other German students, who broke the only real traffic rule that is in effect here: Not to be caught! For real... this place doesn't suffer from an overabundance of traffic-signs. There is an arrow next to each street-sign, indicating the (only) direction to be taken. Most motorized vehicles adhere to this rule too, at least the four wheeled ones. Other than that, you've got your occasional STOP sign, which says ALTO. I want to believe that means STOP, even though I've got a weird feeling that in fact it is saying something like: "Slow down, not so fast!"

Lanes as such are hard to distinguish. If there are two cars next to each other, it's obvious that there's supposed to be two lanes. I haven't seen any accidents though. Unlike in places such as Germany, people here watch out for each other. Otherwise it would be pure chaos.

But I think the only real danger are are the bike-catching cops with their pick-up. Once I saw them too. Remembering my house-mate's story, I took an immediate turn to get away from them... in the wrong direction of a one-way street. But they didn't seem to care. I guess they had their quota filled.

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